Day 4 - Kigali, Rwanda - Thursday, April 30, 2009

Got a late start because of getting to bed so late. Really confusing having a 5-hour nap and then up for 5 and then back to bed for 3. I texted Anselme to only pick me up at 9:20 AM for a 9:30 AM start at the church. Had a quick breakfast, getting sick of Baguette and Meat. Had some interesting peanut butter, it was more like playdough than smooth and easy to spread. Also tried their yogurt today. Either was bad or just bad because it tasted sour and it's much runnier than what we're used to in Canada. The sausage (from Rwanda) and the granola bars (from Canada) are God sent. At 1040 AM today, the meat started its repeat performance.

Brought my suitcase of goodies as the promised prizes for our choir leaders for their aniticipated presentations. Some gently used toys, clothes, books, ties, etc. from home.

At the hotel and generally in public you feel the pro-English presence. It will take a generation to get the "French" out of the system. The French really disappointed the Rwandans. Now they are part of this East Africa movement with the commonality being the English language.

It's getting nice and warm today. Because it didn't rain too much last night, it's going to be a hotter day today. I sweat whether it's hot or not so it really doesn't matter too much to me. A beautiful day nevertheless.

Did I tell you about my mosquito bite? The fun begins! While on the phone with DEV Bernie yesterday, I found my first mosquito bite. Got another one today. The tally is 2. Pray that whatever bites me is not malaria-carrying. My malaria pill is due tomorrow (Friday) as well as my second dose of Dukoral (used to prevent Cholera but mainly diarrhea) so the mosquito bites are good reminders to take the medicine tomorrow. With this Swine Flu all over the news here and at home, it reminds us about prevention rather than cure.

So Obama's first 100 days are over. They, of course, know all about Obama here. He's their hero too. Who's Stephen Harper? What else is in the news? Jays lose their first series of the year as of Thursday night, losing 3 of 4 to Kansas City. The Devils lose, well I guess with a name like that they should and Ovechkin 4, Avery 3.

The gel I bought stinks as well. My hair's all over the place. Oh well!

First stopped quickly at the Kenya Airways office to reconfirm my flights for Saturday.....that's another story. Leaving at 4:00 AM Saturday morning, meaning I have to be at the airport at 2:00 AM. We'll leave the hotel ~ 2:00 AM. To miss my flight would not be good but to be stuck in Rwanda wouldn't be the worst thing either.

Then to the church, so we started at 10:00 AM. En route, I took some video and pictures. I'll refer to the links when they're ready. I'm thinking of downloading them on youtube. So the presentations started and took us the whole morning until almost 1:00 PM. Generally they did very well and their peers "marked" them. Only one C, mostly Bs and a few As.

Then Baguette and Meat for lunch (AGAIN!) with pop. Realized at lunchtime that I'm running out of money fast. OK, just kidding, but it's going fast. Costs are up everywhere, especially transportation and food. What else is there really? When we reimburse the brethren for their transportation, lodgin and food, I would say it's almost double what it used to be when I came the first time here in 2005. Sending an SMS (send money soon) to Most Respected Timothy Nuessler. I will have to contact the office for more funds to meet me in CAR, Tchad or Sri Lanka.

So after lunch the choir leaders got their pick of the "rewards" from the suitcase. I gave the Apostle and Anselme a small woman's lotion gift pack for their wife and then according to their "grade" they were able to choose 1-2 things from the "valise" (suitcase). What a zoo! It was like that suitcase was the last sack of rice in the whole country. Eventually everyone was happy with what they received. I told them that only Rwanda received this as I couldn't bring a suitcase for each country and drag them with me all over the place.

The afternoon session included a review of how to organize a choir practice, vocale exercises and warm-ups, proper breathing technique (including each choir leader lying down on a bench to show them "deep" breathing technique). We concluded the meeting just after 5:00 PM. We also distributed another gift. We organized the reproduction of a music theory book in their language. This was, to date, not available here in Rwanda and the choir leaders were very happy to receive them.

Some other notes;

• While not being able to sleep last night, I watched Deja Vu with Denzel Washington. A pretty good movie although the concept is off.
• Saw travel warning for Congo-Brazza last night but couldn't get to it until today. Nothing to really worry about. Although Tchad is at the highest warning level right now. What else is new?
• Deodorant. Don't get me wrong, this is not a criticism but just an observation. Most do not know what this is. They are used to the "human stink", although to a Westerner it can be quite offensive. There's really no getting used to it for us.
• Drinking water is called "Source du Nil", named after the Nile River but couldn't be further from the truth. It's not Natural nor Mineral, it's just purified drinking water. You would think there would be a lot of Mineral Water in Rwanda because of the thousand hills. The Mineral Water is much more expensive. Who knows? This Nil water may have had its source at the Nile but it went through a big process before I ingested it. Maybe that's a good thing.
• Looks like Friday BF will be bread only, no meat for sure!
• Saw 3 laptops in the group of choir leaders today. Actually have one sister (that's a breakthrough in some places) in this group in Rwanda. Almost everyone has a cell phone. We even joke that people would rather go hungry than give up their cell phone.

More on the black & white. That's fairly protocol here for NAC functions whatever they are. That's all the "good" church clothes they have and often only one white shirt/blouse that is worn until they can't anymore. This is a good reminder to all reading this, including myself, that we need to send some black & white to these places. Blouses, shirts, pants, skirts, shoes, ties.... Let's see what we can do and how much it will cost to send. Minimally we should also concentrate on sending one suitcase with the brothers to the first drop-off country that they travel to. Anything and everything helps!

BTW, May 1st is May Day here as well. Otherwise known as Labour Day. It's a holiday here so we will start a little earlier and end earlier so that the choir leaders can have a little extra time with their family and friends on this holiday.

It would be possible to stay here and in the other countries for a month easy. Unfortunately we all have the same illness.....lack of follow-up.

Had a brother approach me today for help for his house. He even showed me a picture of what he needs (wants) to do. He has an uncle in South Africa but I guess he's not willing to help. This brother isn't expecting the church to help, he's expecting me to help. I will see what I can do. When you help one, the rest expect it as well. Reminds me of a time in Bangui (CAR) when a brother approached me for money for medicine for his TB. I knew fairly quickly that the TB was just the final stage of an AIDS death. I gave him what I could but I knew it wouldn't help much. Sure enough, upon my next visit to CAR, he had already died..... A tough reality of the diseases that exist and that prevail in this part of the world.

After a short recuperation from 5:30 - 7:00 PM. The three of us (Apostle Minga, Anselme & myself) went to "heaven" for supper. This is a new concept restaurant owned by Americans where they employ young Rwandans out of desperate circumstances (orphans, former prostitutes, etc.). The cooks, servers, hosts are all Rwandans out of these circumstances. A really nice restaurant to boot. Everyone speaks English and the food was very good although a little cold. Pictures show the Anselme's pork chops, my beef filet and the Apostle's chicken. This is just up the road from the previously best restaurant in Kigali, Indian Khazana (sp?). Rumour has it that this Indian restaurant had to recently close due to them "not paying their taxes" (nudge nudge, wink wink).

Returned home at 9:30 PM or so and returned to the room, slept on and off, watched "Damage" (not bad) and now up again till 4:00 AM doing this blog but at least I'm caught up. SKYPEd with Bishop Wiesel tonight as well and hopefully he will be my SMS delivery when we meet up in Sri Lanka in a couple of weeks. He had to cancel his trip to Pakistan and will go to Nepal instead, something not good (again). Good Night and see you tomorrow.

Day 3 (continued) - Kigali, Rwanda - Back at the hotel

Back at the hotel, I made myself a salami sandwich with the meat and bread that I bought at Nakumatt and then I fell asleep for a 4-5 hour nap. Just knocked out! When I woke up at 11:30 PM, I was wide awake. Then to the computer to start this blog and catch up on some emails and communication with home. Even talked to DEV Bernie for a good 30 minutes and made a schedule change over SKYPE and him calling PR Bagnall to go to Scarborough. It was good to hear another familiar voice from home. I talk to Lisa every day if possible. Either she can call me on my Rwandan cell # or over SKYPE or I call her, also to her cell or our home over SKYPE. SKYPE is wonderful!

Couldn't get to sleep until after 4:00 AM but was happy to start the blog. Now it's 3:30 AM as I write this the day after. Jet-lagged and not adjusting too easily.

Day 3 - Kigali, Rwanda - Wednesday, April 29, 2009

The work finally begins. After a nice simple continental breakfast (mostly cold; breads, cold meats and cheeses, cereal, yogurt, fruit) and a small wait at the pool, Apostle Minga and Rector Anselme picked me up to take me to the church in Nyakirambo (a section of Kigali). A short 10-15 minute ride to the church from the hotel.

Something of notice, they spell Salon like Saloon. I assure you they are not Saloons but Hair & Beauty Salons.

So we started just after 9:00 AM with all in black & white, a familiar scene for all New Apostolic overseas seminars, either with or without tie. Since tonight was service, ties were in order but I didn't put mine on until about 20 minutes before service.

The seminar began with a hymn and then an opening prayer by our Apostle. Welcome remarks were made to the 20+ Choir Leaders from across the country. Some travelled 6-8 hours. This is the rainy season although in Kigali they are not much worse for wear but you can imagine how it is in the villages where most roads are dirt and dust.

Our two main choir leaders were there. Priest Innocent from Kigali and Priest Frederic from Gisenyi (bordering Goma, DRC). Priest Innocent didn't make it last year when we were together so we nominated Priest Frederic as our lead National Choir Leader for Rwanda. They would love to do "music" full-time but it isn't warranted nor budgeted for. They all could create full-time jobs for themselves. As District Apostle Wagner said often, "With your ideas and my money, we could do things, couldn't we?" This was usually the answer for "no".

Much of the work on this trip I really have to see that they can do this on their own. So I am a "guide" and "observer" and will "butt in" where necessary. The morning (until 12:30 PM) included the logistics of organizing Seminar Centres with 10-15 choir leaders in each. Then the lead choir leaders present made their input and requests for how much time they feel they need (want) each year for Music Seminars. Fairly unrealistic but eventually possible when we have enough Seminar Leaders. Right now we have 2, Innocent and Frederic. Innocent is quite busy with work and/or studies so it probably is 1 1/2.

Lunch was baguette and sucree (pron sucray). Eventually you get sick of this stuff, but the French influence is very much in order with the baguettes very cheap and popular. I believe those two attributes are very much related. The more popular something is, the cheaper it is. The cheaper it is, the more popular it is. On the baguette was a little luncheon meat like bologna, and yes, I do eat it, although I probably shouldn't. After about an hour, back to work.

The shorter (due to service @ 5 PM) afternoon session included mainly consolidating the 4-beat pattern and then selecting topics for Thursday's presentations. Each choir leader is to conduct their own mini-seminar on Thursday on topics that have been reviewed in past seminars. Each is to last 5-10 minutes. We'll see. I guarantee you some will be 2 minutes and others will be 20+. It'll all balance out. We finished our shortened afternoon ~ 4:00 PM to give a little time before the 5:00 PM service start. I freshened up and then fell asleep with my head on the table in the office (sorry no picture of that).

About 4:45 PM, I got myself dressed and ready (add tie, tie shoes, etc.) and then entered the sacristy where Apostle Minga, his brother (priest responsible for the congregation) + Priest Frederic were waiting. Service began right on time at 5:00 PM for the 30 odd present. Mainly the 20+ choir leaders + another 10 from the congregation. A historical note; the church in Kigali was built under the guidance and diligence of DEV Addison, who is known around Rwanda, and the world, even when he was only in a country maybe one time. This is fairly unique to him. So this church brings back many memories of DEV Addison, especially the marble altar (see photo). When I think of DEV Addison, I also think of deceased Apostle Kiboba, who also worked diligently here in Rwanda after growing up in DRC and moving here as a District Evangelist, I believe. His wife, Evanice, still lives about 1 block away from our church here and we're looking forward to catching up on Friday afternoon as she is out of Kigali for a few days.

OK, I remember that Apostle Minga doesn't serve long, at least not when I'm here. The service was conducted in Kinyarwanda (the local language) and Priest Frederic translated into French for me (not simultaneously). With this extra work, the Apostle still only served about 10 minutes. The word was the same as Canada as the Apostles receive the current DSG (Divine Service Guide) that we do in the Western World. The remainder of the ministers in overseas countries receive a Word of Life Book where articles are used from two years previous, meaning 2009's book has the cooinciding articles from the 2007 WoL or DSG that we used at that time.

So the word was, wait for it, those that were in service shouldn't have to.......Apostle Peter walking on water; those that follow precisely the Word of God will have a strong faith created from it added with our confidence (trust) and obedience, we are able to experience God's Miracles as well. So, yes, I was called up and served probably the same length as the Apostle but this time me in French and the Apostle's brother into Kinyarwanda. Shortly thereafter the Apostle brought us to the Lord's Prayer, the Absolution and the celebration of Holy Communion. May I make one comment here; Three-fold Amen way too slow. WOW! I will have to work on this one before I leave as it's one of District Apostle's pet peeves re: music overseas. The three-fold Amen should be sung in the same way, at the same speed in every country.

After service, it is fairly customary that when the Apostle is there, he brings greetings from the area where he just visited. Of course then the congregation thanks him (in unison) and gives greetings back to him to bring to his next "port". The Apostle called me to give greetings from our District Apostle, Apostle, my family and all of you (our brothers and sisters in Canada). Now after this is done usually the choir sings. The officiant and the brothers accompanying him go right to the back of the church (front door) and one by one each one is greeted. Basically I shook hands with the Apostle and then the one behind me shakes hands with the Apostle and me. This goes on until all have shaken hands with one another and we have formed a perimeter fence in the courtyard of the church (see photo). I love this custom. During the "shaking hands ceremony" the choir and congregation are singing the final hymn together. Again, I just love this. We could only get away with this in the warmer months in Canada or maybe in a place like Lindsay or Brampton. But, I just love this! (did I say that before?)

Shortly thereafter the counting of the offering (they always get the foreigner to sign, just to prove that he was there and the Canada brother is always coded #1, it doesn't matter who it is) and then the short ride back to the hotel after further encouragement to the choir leaders for their anticipated presentations on Thursday.

Day 2 (continued) - Kigali, Rwanda - Tuesday, April 28, 2009

Been here, done that. I wondered how this would go. Each country is different and has its goods and bads but Rwanda is special due to its recent history with the 1994 Genocide but also its beauty as the "land of a thousand hills", gorillas (in the mist), and temperate climate. I usually like to end a journey in Rwanda as a nice treat on the way home. This trip starts in Rwanda!

Speaking of the Genocide of 1994, April 2009 marks the 15th anniversary of the terrible genocide of 1,000,000 Rwandans in just 100 days. A moving thought on its own.

It's incredible to note that Rwanda with its disastrous recent past has quite nicely rebounded and quite quickly. They are becoming more English as the French really disappointed them in 1994 (watch "Hotel Rwanda" or read one of the books on the 1994 Genocide, worthwhile to give some perspective). They are also now aligning themselves recently with East Africa. When I was here last year, I came at the time that Rwanda was hosting the East African Economic Conference. This includes countries such as Kenya, Uganda, Tanzania.

Rwanda is the only country for us NAC Missionaries that doesn't require us to get an entry visa. Although corruption still exists it is fairly safe and handouts are not as requested, expected or rampant.

A fairly easy way off the plane (raining "spitting" a little), on to a bus for a 10 second ride and then into the immigration line. That took all of 5 minutes. Then a 45-minute wait for luggage arriving on 2 carousals (the only 2). Eventually retrieved my two bags to now exit the terminal.

Nobody there!

My thoughts, "OK, don't panic! They're just late, I'm sure you have Anselme's (our NAC office manager) cell phone number." Got through to Anselme and he said that traffic was horrendeous and that they are just arriving at the airport. A short 2-3 minutes later I saw Anselme but he didn't see me. I called out, "Ne peux-tu pas voir le grand homme blanc?", loosely, "Can't you see the big white man?" We greeted one another as well as several choir leaders and brothers. Then the Apostle Minga himself. He lives in Gisenyi, about a 3-hour drive away through the mountains and on the border of Congo DR (twin city of Goma, where in recent times lots of problems). He still drives his Toyota Landrunner (?) that I thought would fall apart last time. Two seats in the front and two rows of benches in the back.

Took the 20-minute ride to downtown to my accommodation for the week, Hotel le Garni du Centre Kigali. Short form; le Garni. A very short distance from Hotel Mille Collines (famous as "Hotel Rwanda") and also Nakumatt, a 24-hour department/grocery store. Check-in uneventful and then towards the room I notice the breakfast area with an open-air fireplace (beautiful, I'll try to get a picture tomorrow (Thursday) night). Past the pool, OK, now you're thinking this is a vacation. Room on the 2nd floor at the end of the hallway. Fairly comfortable. Shower (no bath), proper toilet, no A/C (hope I don't need it), mosquito net over the bed with 1" hole in it on top, balcony, bar fridge, tv and two single beds. Wonderful thing about this hotel is wireless internet. Although it's slow, at least it's there. May not have it always and "blog" may not always be so flowing (be patient, please).

Prayed together with Apostle and then went shopping for some water (+ food) and a SIM card. The phone I have is "unlocked" so it's fairly easy and inexpensive to buy a SIM card in each country. More for incoming and SMS than anything else. It's a wonder that in most countries here in Africa it's cheaper for Mobile minutes than at home in Canada. Went to Nakumatt mall which is really maybe 200 metres away but up a really big hill. Did I mention that this is the land of a thousand hills. That includes downtown Kigali. Anselme went to exchange some money and I looked around. Got some hairgel (forgot mine at home, not the best place to buy it), water, bread, and SAUSAGE! Yes, sausage, they have a German butchery right in Nakumatt. Bought several types and then a loaf of bread because you never know when you're going to need it. In the meantime, Anselme got $ and we bought the SIM card as well (MTN + 5000 RFR ~ $10 of airtime). Most cell networks are prepaid services.

Back to hotel and then tried to sleep. Had a sausage (spicy hot!!!) before going to bed. Also unpacked a little and tried to be prepared for work tomorrow (Wednesday). Also SKYPed home and talked to Lisa.

Day 2 - Flight to Kigali - Tuesday, April 28

Well here we go again, a different twist on the same thing. Bringing back some memories of 1987 and a flight from Brussels to Kinshasa on the previous version of Brussels Airlines named SABENA. An acronym for Such A Bad (or if you're English, add your own "b" expletive) Experience Never Again. I really cannot complain. A similar business class product to Air France with 160 degree recline configured in a 2-2-2 format. Good thing about flying with the French or Belgians is that you'll get good wine, usually good food and good cheeses. The rest is fairly much to be desired. The section was fairly empty again. 30 seats and maybe 12 filled. Only realized now how spoiled we were on Jet from Toronto. Drank some French Madoc and had some salmon thing as appetizer followed by a Veal Medallion (steak?) VERY DRY, followed by cheese (pretty good) and dessert (some mousse cake). Oh, before I forget, meal started with a drink + some olives (good) and some cashews + assorted nuts. In the nut mixture, I found a few dried wasabi-flavoured edamame beans. Wow! Almost worth the whole trip.

Watched "Amazing Grace", a fairly good film about John Newton, the composer/writer of the hymn Amazing Grace. It follows his life as a slave trader in Africa and how this had an impact on his life.

Forgot to talk about the Ammenity Bags. I'm a little bit of a fanatic collector of these over the years. Some are good, others are pathetic. Jet Airways was nice (Bulgari) but fairly empty and when I asked for a mask to sleep, they didn't have one. The socks were good with the "grippers" on the bottom. Brussels Airlines had a very interesting BAG, not a bag, but a BAG meaning a shoe bag (large format). A fairly high-quality bag with the usual inside but again, I was really impressed with the size and the quality.

Another thing I forgot, Belgian chocolates. A nice box of four were presented to us at the end of the meal. Probably worth $10-15. I kept it for a treat for later when I knew I would need it.

I actually slept about 3-4 hours (half the flight) and went through the newspapers and magazines fairly thoroughly before landing in Kigali, Rwanda at 6:30 PM local time.

Day 2 - Brussels - Tuesday, April 28

Brussels was quite uneventful. As we deplaned, I noticed that it reminded me of the airport in Bangkok although a lot smaller. It's pretty dead in any airport at 7 in the morning (OK, maybe not Singpore nor Dubai). Quickly looked into Duty Free (pretty expensive for Canadians but fairly normal for Europe) and then off to Terminal A/T for the African flights on Brussels Airlines. Europe, generally, is pretty sterile and probably the Belgiums, Switzerlands, Germanys of the world are fairly black & white or grey, in terms of decor, etc. The Brussels Airlines lounge was fairly "Enterpriseish" but in a bright orange/red decor. Some good "pain chocolat" (aka chocolate croissant) and even beer, but even for me it was too early for that but Belgian beer is the way to go.....maybe on the way home. A green tea with peppermint to settle my prawn curry and then checking emails again. NOT rushing to the gate to board Brussels Airlines flight to Kigali, Rwanda.

Day 1 - Flight to Brussels - Monday, April 27

Start of trip to Africa and South Asia. Probably my last big overseas/"developing world" trip for a while as on to new things in September.

Rushing, as usual, doing last minute packing and getting all things in order. Lisa went to get my USD but they were giving her problems to cash the cheque and wanted to charge $320 - wow! that's a lot of money to cash a cheque. Packed so much mosquito stuff, you would think I'm camping. Even one of those mosquito tennis rackets.

Because of rushing, we were able to go together as a family to the airport. Fairly uneventful at the airport. I'm the NAC guinea pig with "Jet Airways". For future trips, including this one for me, we will save about 50% on flights especially to Kinshasa, DRC and Kigali, Rwanda. "Jet" uses Air Canada's lounge so although a long walk to the Int'l section of Terminal 1, a "Sleeman's Light" and two soups (cream of chicken + minestrone) + checking emails and it brought me to rushing, again, to the gate. Didn't realize how late it was and was the last one to board the plane.

Jet Airways has the "herringbone" configuration for business class. Very similar to Air Canada's Executive Class service. This Airbus seemed brand new and everything in the aircraft was in pristine shape. The tv screen was about 12", bigger than anything I've ever seen on a flight. Dinner was Prawn Curry preceded by Corn Chowder and followed by fruit. I think it was a French Chablis that I was drinking. Watched "Seven Pounds" with Will Smith. A very interesting movie although I could predict what the end was going to be about 15-20 minutes into the movie. Worthwhile nonetheless. Also watched most of a Bollywood film entitled "Datsana" or something. Am I going to India or Africa?

We had 4 flight attendants for 3 passengers! One of them offered to "make up my bed" (with duvet, pillow, sheet and blanket) and I tried sleeping (unsuccessfully - maybe 1-2 hours) before a continental breakfast welcomed us into Brussels.

Interestingly enough, Jet Airways, based in India, has all Indian flight attendants as well. I really could only understand one of them, though. I'm usually pretty good with accents but with the jet noise, et al, I really only understood "the boss". They were all so nice, all different, one Parsee, one Asian (meaning more Chinese/South East Asian looking). BTW, I even went through a Berlitz course in the Entertainment to learn some Mandarin (again quite unsuccessfully). At least I still know Nee How and Sai Jian and Shee Shia.